Jewelry Bench Fees Explained: What to Charge for Your Studio Time

What bench fees actually cover

Bench fees are flat charges that cover the cost of using your studio for a piece of work, separate from materials. They typically include:

Your time: setup, the actual work, cleanup, packaging. A 30-minute job is rarely 30 minutes of focused bench time — add 15–20 minutes for setup and finishing on either end.

Bench overhead: solder, flux, pickle, polishing compound, sandpaper, sawblades, drill bits, propane, gloves. These are consumables that disappear into every job and don't show up on a per-piece materials list.

Tool wear: every job uses up a tiny piece of every tool's working life. Files dull, hammers dent, anvils mark. Bench fees amortize tool maintenance and replacement.

Risk premium: especially for repairs and stone setting, a small fee covers the rare-but-real chance of damaging a stone or breaking a piece during work. Insurance is part of this; so is the fact that you'll occasionally redo something for free.

How to calculate your bench fee

Two approaches: time-based and project-based.

Time-based (best for predictable work): your hourly rate × estimated hours + materials. A simple ring sizing taking 25 minutes at $40/hr = $17, plus $5 in materials = $22 minimum bench fee. Round up to $25–$35 for a defensible number.

Project-based / flat fees (best for repeated work types): set fixed prices for common services. Customers prefer flat fees because they know what to expect; you prefer them because they account for the unpredictable parts of repair work.

Standard project-based fees for indie studios:

- Ring sizing (up or down 1 size, sterling or gold): $35–$60

- Sizing with metal added (per size up): $30 + cost of metal

- Chain repair (single solder joint): $25–$45

- Bezel reset (single stone): $40–$80

- Prong tightening or rebuilding: $50–$120

- Polishing/cleaning a piece: $20–$45

- Stamping (initials, hallmark): $15–$30

Bench fees for custom commissions

Custom commissions need a separate fee structure. The 'bench fee' for custom work is really a design + project-management fee that covers the parts of custom work that don't fit neatly into hourly billing.

Design fee ($75–$300): consultation call, sketches or CAD renderings, material sourcing, customer revisions before fabrication. Charge this upfront and apply it to the final invoice if the customer commits to the project.

Project setup fee ($50–$150): on top of design, this covers ordering specific materials, prepping stock, and any one-time tooling specific to this commission. Non-refundable once materials are ordered.

Standard project total: design fee + setup fee + (estimated hours × hourly rate) + materials + 50% margin. Always quote a written estimate with a clear deposit schedule (typically 50% upfront, 50% on delivery).

When bench fees feel awkward (and how to handle it)

Some indie jewelers resist bench fees because they feel 'extra' or 'salesy.' The fix is framing.

Don't apologize for the fee. Customers expect a charge for studio work. A confident quote of '$45 for the sizing' is met with 'Sure, when can I pick it up?' A hesitant 'um, well, I usually charge around $20 for that...' is met with 'Could you do it for $15?'

Don't bury the fee in metal cost. If you charge $80 for a ring sizing and break it down as '$50 for metal, $30 for labor,' the customer feels charged twice. Quote the total with the fee implicit: '$80 to size up your ring two sizes, including the metal.'

Do post your bench fees. If you have a website, list them. Customers who see fees in writing accept them as standard. Customers who get a verbal quote treat it as the start of a negotiation.

Worked example: standard sterling ring sizing (size 7 → 8)

A $60 sizing fee feels high if you've been charging $25, but it's defensible: 35 minutes of skilled bench time isn't $20 of value. If you're losing customers at $60, the fix isn't lower pricing — it's marketing to customers who already pay this rate at retail jewelers. They exist, they're abundant, and they value not having to drive to a mall.

Frequently asked questions